I had an amazing time at the final round of the Dark Horse competition last night! It was my most successful comp to date. And by successful, I mean it was a personal victory. In all the comps I’ve done, I’m generally in top 3 of intermediate (except one time I totally bombed and they bumped me down to rec haha), but this time I was 4th. But to be fair, there were also more climbers this time so in terms of rankings, it’s probably exactly the same because they just take the number of climbers and divide it into 1/3 and that’s how they do the rankings. BUT this time for me it actually FELT good. It was the first comp ever that I felt like I was strong. I flashed more problems, I tried harder, and I was able to successfully complete a few problems in the top of my competition range. Also, I really was more strategic this time and not get too hung up on problems I couldn’t do right away and moved on.
Comp climbing is so unique- there is so much strategy involved in terms of how you spend your time in 3 hours and knowing what to climb. I remember feeling overwhelmed in all the past comps and just spending too much time watching people and not getting on the wall enough and then I realized I have one hour left and still needed several more climbs.
This time, I was able to complete some harder climbs in the first hour, leaving me the last two hours to spend a little more time projecting a couple climbs I was really close to getting. You kinda have to figure out what you can send in a short period without exhausting yourself so much you can’t do easier problems too. I think I am finally getting the sense of when to move on from a problem vs using all my energy to send a problem.
The best part is that I got to meet Alex Puccio! She was one of the many awesome pros there competing in the finals round. Super nice! I told her I’ve been working out so I can get Alex Puccio guns so we flexed them for the picture. GOD SHE IS SO RIPPED – I AM SO JEALOUS!